yana-notes

Skin

2021-11-19 links: reference:

Skin(care) #

  • Squalene is a liquid hydrocarbon. Squalane though, is way thinner and non-greasy, and sinks into your skin leaving no residue.
  • Niacinamide is effective against dehydration. TO has it with Zinc pca - people say you may experience an initial purge with it.
    • You can combine niacinamide with ascorbic acid. I believe it merely reduces the integrity
  • Polypeptide creams/buffet
    • Buffet contains:
    • Tetrapeptide-21
  • *Anyway, for peptides in general, we have a ton of problems regarding transepidermal delivery systems. Peptides, such as EGF, only work if they interact with living skin cells in the dermis. And getting peptides to the dermis is a huge problem. I’ll link you the research of course, but as someone who read the whole thing and wrote down all the strategies we have to get peptides to the dermis, our methods are:
    • micro emulsions which have high amounts of surfactants, encapsulation with liposomes/transfersomes/ethosomes/niosomes, nano electro spun fiber mats, iontophoresis, sonophoresis, enzymes to alter the stratum corneum such as trypsin, chemical penetration enhancers which are problematic due to skin irritation and peptide denaturing, and creating derivatives of the peptide to make it more skin permeable, which puts the efficacy of the peptide altered in question.*
  • Propolis
  • https://www.allure.com/gallery/skin-care-ingredients-that-counteract-each-other
    • Don’t combine vitamin C with salicylic acid or glycolic acid, since they alter pH. Don’t combine salicylic acid with other acids. Apparently SA and retinols nullify eachother.
    • Not mixing vitamin C with peptides might be cap
    • Do not mix tretinoin with glycolic or lactic acids (TO moisutirizing factors has it…)
  • From astrosky: mini hifu/ultrasonic device https://www.instagram.com/p/CZuTk6KFh-j/ for spot reduction.
    • uses ultrasound frequencies of 20k-40k to damage fat cells on a target area.
      • Will have to re-read Peat’s thoughts on ultrasound. I recall him saying it’s potentially beneficial
  • Cosmetic procedures like lasers, peels, etc. are super cheap in South Korea, if I ever feel like traveling there and probably vampiremaxxing

Guides #

Routine #

  • Morning

  • Night

    • Cleanse
    • AHAs: Probably just use the TO peeling solution and not bother with anything else in that regard. AHA = acute ’exfoliators’ proper and are better suited for night
      • TO AHA+BHA - pH 3.5-3.7 (Can work up to daily usage)
        • 30% glycolic, lactic, tartaric, citric. 2% salicylic. Has hyaluronic acid crosspolymer, B5, black carrot, tasmanian pepperberry.
    • Azelaic acid
    • Buffet w/ GHK-Cu
      • I don’t think peptides or GHK-Cu is contraindicated with tretinoin per se, it’s just that they’re both active and might be too much to handle.
    • Tretinoin (wait 20-30 mins before and after (lol I’ve basically never did this))
    • Volufiline?

  • AM:

    • 5% caffeine + 20% niacinamide + 4% succinic acid + .01% Methylene Blue in H2O
    • The Ordinary Ascorbyl Glucoside 12%
    • The Ordinary Multi-Peptide + HA
      • Does NOT harm the skin when combined with ‘direct vitamin C’ (pure ascorbic acid. It just might compromise the activity of the peptides. They also recommend against combining it with salicylic acid/direct acids, resveratrol, and ferulic acid.
    • Kaine Chaga Collagen Charging Serum
    • The Ordinary Alpha Arbutin 2% + HA
    • La Roche Posay Toleriane Double Repair Face Moisturizer
    • Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun : Rice + Probiotics SPF50+

  • PM:

    • The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution
    • Tretinoin 0.1% gel
    • Garden of Wisdom Azeloyl Glycine 8%
      • Apparently helps perioral dermatitis. Pretty dope.
    • The Ordinary Multi-Peptide + Copper Peptides 1% (GHK-Cu)
    • Kaine Chaga Collagen Charging Serum
    • The Ordinary Alpha Arbutin 2% + HA
    • La Roche Posay Toleriane Double Repair Face Moisturizer
    • Petrolatum as a night mask?? I lowkey could really use something of the sort
    • Minoxidil 5% + Azelaic acid 5% + Retinol + Adenosine + Niacinamide + Caffeine + Rosemary oil 2%

Products #

  • Centella (Orc on .org talks about this. Makes your skin look more reflective)
  • Bifida (sidmool brand or whatever) for brighter complexion
  • Dermofuture intensive lip plumper (HA lip “injection”)
  • Idebenone (lots of products are made apparently actually?) do like 3g into a 1lb tub of cerave moisturizer
    • Pogonia Anti-Wrinkle Face Cream with Idebenone & Hyaluronic Acid (1.7 oz) – EGF, IGF & FGF Skin Repair Factors
  • https://shop.adipeau.com/products/active-face-cream Adipeau (kaempira parviflora)
  • TMS SKINDMEDICA
  • Topical Estrogen seems legit. It goes systemic to some extent though
  • PRP-related DIY cosmetic injections.
  • ALL THE PEPTIDES!
    • Buffet has:
      • Matrixyl 3000 = Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 + Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
        • Type I collagen. Ideally 8%
      • Matrixyl synthe’6 = Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
        • Tye I collagen. Ideally 2%
      • SYN™-AKE peptide complex = dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate)
      • ARGIRELOX™ peptide complex = acetyl hexapeptide-8, pentapeptide-18
      • Postbiotic complex (with Lactococcus lactis lysate)
      • … in a base of 11 skin-friendly amino acids and multiple hyaluronic acid complexes, with 25.1% total concentration of the peptides.
      • And a bunch of amino acids for some reason.
      • And the copper one has Copper Tripeptide-1, which is GHK-Cu.
    • https://geekandgorgeous.us/products/power-peptides has 2 that aren’t included in Buffet. And I can get https://geekandgorgeous.us/products/c-glow while I’m at it - very cheap C E Ferulic.
      • X50 = Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14
      • TEGO PEP 4-17 = Tetrapeptide-21

Acids #

  • Hyaluronic acid is good, but it’s not very hydrating. It makes the skin plump by drawing water out and onto the surface, if there’s no water in the air.

https://theskincareedit.com/does-glycolic-acid-thin-skin https://theskincareedit.com/aha-vs-bha The only BHA is Salicylic Acid.

  • AHAs include:

  • Glycolic: most common, and the strongest.

  • Lactic: second most common, and gentler than glycolic.

  • Citric: Weak. Regulates pH of other acids.

  • Malic: Mild; won’t do much on its own

  • Mandelic: Mild, weaker than lactic acid. Won’t do much on its own.

  • Phytic: Weak. Antioxidant.

  • Tartaric: Weak. Stabilizes the pH of other acids.

  • They work by creatiging acidic conditions within skin cells, allowing calcium ions to flow in, leading to cell death in the uppermost layer.

  • Acids thicken the epidermis and the dermis, unless in high doses.

  • AHAs can make your skin more inflamed and vulnerable to sun damage.

  • I can’t exactly think of a reason why I need AHAs. TO recommends against using their AHA+BHA more than 2x/week. Maybe I can do it 2 or 3x/week and use BHA the rest of the week. And of course maybe rest on sunday or something.

Cleansers #

EWG Certified #

These aren’t even necessarily good. Like I don’t know what they’re here for when they can get a 4 or something. Licorice, chamomilla, are naughty.

Moisturizers #

  • Cerave is kind of infamous for being comedogenic for a lot of people. A lot of people say it’s the niacinamide they use in all their products, but I’m skeptical of that because other people say it’s anti-acne. The problem with Cerave is that it has a combo of Cetearyl alcohol and ceteareth-20 which separately they’re 2’s on the comedogenic scale, but a 4 when combined together.
  • Etude House Soon Jung 2x Intensive Barrier
  • The Ordinary Natural moisturizing factors: EWG 4. It has a pile of ingredients but a lot of them are just amino acids. Cetyl and stearyl alcohol are ok.
    • Naughty: sodium hydroxide (4), phenoxyethanol (4), triethanolamine (not in the phytoceramide version), chlorophenesin (4). Really good besides that.

Sunscreens #

  • SPF 15 = 1/15th (93%) of the radiation will each the skin. Meaning that SPF 35 is only 97%…

  • Skin damage can also be caused by ultraviolet type A (UVA, wavelengths 315-400 or 320-400nm. Does not cause reddening/pain, but causes DNA damage and increases risk of malignant melanomas) Broad-spectrum sunscreens protect against this (and UVB) #

  • PA = PPD in a grade system. PA++++ is 16 or higher. European sunscreens must have at least 1/3 their UVB, so SPF 50 = 16 PPD. PA doesn’t go higher than ++++ I think by law
  • “SPF 50+” in America is actually 60 minimum, not 51.
  • https://www.news-medical.net/news/20211015/Zinc-oxide-in-sunscreens-destroys-UVA-protection-during-sun-exposure.aspx it’s over? Zinc oxide prevents UVA absorption from other ingredients—after 2 hours.

Avoid Oxybenzone and Avobenzone I think

Natural Cope #

BB Cream/CC Cream #

Vitamin C #

Pretty sure you want L-Ascorbic acid.

  • Good serums are those by Nufountain, Silk Naturals, and MUAC.
  • Dr. Dray shills C E Ferulic by Skinceuticals as having a stable, evidence-based formulation. Guess how much the bottle is? … $182. EWG 5 for some weird shit as well
  • Should always be an airless pump for longevity of the product? C E f erulic isn’t…
  • Ferulic acid stabilizes solutions of vitamins C and E and doubles its photoprotection of skin so if you’re buying a vitamin C serum without it then it’s over for you. The vitamin C serum also must have a pH below 3.5 for effective penetration. Ascorbic acid serums must be at least 10% to be effective. The maximum amount of ascorbic acid penetration was seen at 20% with a pH of 3.2, so a vitamin C serum with this concentration will give you the best results.
    • Soo TO = 8% which is underdosed.

Dark Circles #

  1. Hyperpigmentation
    • https://www.reddit.com/r/SkincareAddiction/wiki/hyperpigmentation
    • Fix with:
      • Melanin inhibitors
        • Alpha Arbutin: Tyrosinase inhibitor
        • Kojic acid: Tyrosinase inhibitor, but generally considered second to arbutin I think?
        • Flavanols
        • Hydroxy stilbenes
      • Hydroquinone (don’t do it)
        • Can’t be mixed with AHA
        • It’s a meme and everyone on /r/skinwhitening knows this: Not suitable longterm with its rebound effect, and I think it fucks with your skin color (ochronosis) and acan cause cataracts. Yeah fuck that. The question is if other tyrosinase inhibitors do this???
      • AHAs (be careful)
      • Vitamin C
        • Keeping pH (<3.5) with ferulic acid low makes it more hydrophobic, to make it penetrate into the stratum corneum.
        • 8-20% is necessary. Mega concentration is more just irritating.
      • Retinoids
      • Azelaic acid.
      • Melasyl
  2. Very thin skin andor low fat
    • You can do some fuck shit to get the capillaries zapped.
    • Thin fat and thin skin = transparent: dark is the color of the underlying obicularis muscle.
  3. Suborbital volume deficiency
    • This is just the skull shape. Only cosmetic surgery can fix this.

Lipofilling agents #

Skin Anatomy #

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